The city of Bam, located in southeastern Iran, has stood firmly for over 2,000 years. Since its foundation, estimated between 250 bce and 224 ce, it has thrived as an energetic marketplace and a focal point for the region. Even though surrounded by inhospitable deserts and mountains, the city served as a commercial link between Asia and the Middle East. As a former trading center on the famous Silk Road, Bam is a city of extraordinary historical significance.

But the morning of December 26, 2003, brought unparalleled devastation, threatening the future of this ancient city. At 5:27 am, a magnitude 6.6 earthquake struck just southwest of the city. Within a few seconds, 60 percent of the structures in Bam, composed primarily of mud and clay bricks, were reduced to rubble. Tens of thousands of people were buried within their collapsed homes. Nearly 26,300 persons were killed, and tens of thousands more left injured and homeless. Despite its deep historical roots, Bam was instantly changed that morning. It will never be quite the same.

Yet, there is no doubt that the 2,000 year-old city will endure. For the past two years, new residents, new buildings and new lives have poured into Bam, changing the face of this ancient city. As it has risen above the devastation, it has become stronger, more resilient, and more modern. However, despite these changes, Bam continues to retain the valuable assets and the common memory of its people.

When the mass media uses its unrivaled power to broadcast news of terrible disasters, the idea that all people on earth belong to "one big family" materializes for a short time. Through television, satellite and the Internet, people all over the earth witness the suffering and tragedy that such disasters bring. With that witness comes an outpouring of support and love. Millions of people, inspired by the heart-rending images, donate money, goods and services to help the victims. At no other time do we feel quite the same sense of belonging to a global village.

But those intense feelings are short-lived. Eventually, media crews move on, looking for fresh events to fill the airwaves. Headlines of disasters are replaced with headlines of accidents, the economy, war or international relations. As each media outlet vies for the ever-shifting attention of the public, the disaster and the victims slowly fade from the collective memory. Sadly, the needs of disaster victims extend far beyond the short memories of those watching from the comfort of their homes.

It wasn't so long ago that people around the world solemnly observed the first anniversary of the great tsunami that brought death and destruction to South Asia. But how many people remembered that December 26 marked another grim anniversary? The earthquake ravaged southeastern Iran one year to the day before the huge tidal waves hit, yet nobody seemed to be talking of that disaster. Although the temblor killed 26,271 people, left thousands more homeless and brought a 2,000-year-old city to its knees, it seemed to have been deleted from people's memories as though it had never occurred.

Immediately after the disaster in Iran, the extensive media attention on Bam gave impetus to reconstruction efforts. But media passion alone was not enough to sustain long-term reconstruction efforts. After the mass media lost interest and international aid workers pulled out, the survivors had to face by themselves the daunting task of rebuilding.

The reconstruction efforts were complicated by a host of other issues that soon surfaced. Many kinds of conflicts arose in the reconstruction process once the initial emergency rescue efforts came to an end: differences in personal or social values, cultural differences, even political interference. Without the media spotlight to serve as a catalyst for reconstruction, the citizens of Bam had to rely on patience and perseverance to see them through. This is when the true test for the survivors began.

But slowly, Bam is on the mend. Almost forgotten by the world, the proud city is rising again.　

Two years after the disaster, the whole city looks like a machine that has not been entirely put together but has started operating again.　

I returned to Bam in early 2006. Two years had passed since the disaster. Along the roadside were still a few damaged houses that hadn't been dismantled, as well as old tents, piles of rubble, and some utility poles standing diagonally. All indicated that a major disaster had once happened here.

And yet the city is relatively free of the signs of destruction which were so prevalent after the earthquake. Most fallen buildings have been cleared away, and most of the tents have been removed. Some families displaced by the earthquake now live in new houses built with outside help, but many more are still living in prefabricated houses.

The city is filled with construction work. After the quake, many people wanted to build two-story houses, but they lacked enough money to finish the job. Thus, there are many houses in which the first floor is finished but the second floor is not, just a skeletal framework of steel beams jutting towards the sky.

Bam experienced a large influx of people moving to the city after the earthquake. They arrived hoping to capitalize on the huge increase in job opportunities associated with reconstruction. The increase in population is tangible. The city center was so busy with heavy traffic that I found it difficult to cross major streets. I saw long lines of cars outside gas stations. There were even some traffic jams during the evening rush hour. Many people had turned their temporary houses into small shops. Commerce was flourishing, and street vendors were selling everything from fruits and vegetables to daily necessities. Even so, many unemployed people squatted near major intersections, begging for money. The whole city looked like a machine geared up for action, even though it had not yet been completely restored.

Tzu Chi has been active in Bam since the disaster hit two years ago. Volunteers arrived in Iran 72 hours after the earthquake to provide emergency goods and medical care, and they distributed rice in Bam before the Islamic New Year in March 2004. Tzu Chi volunteers are also deeply involved in reconstruction efforts.

Many think that the reconstruction efforts in Bam are too slow due to the shortage of reconstruction teams in the city. There is much work that remains, even today. But according to Mohammad Javad Kamyab, the director general of the Kerman Organization of Schools Renovation, Development and Mobilization, the Iranian government hopes to complete major reconstruction efforts before the end of 2006. The reconstruction of schools has been the most efficient.　

In order to rebuild schools for the next generation, the international construction teams worked diligently with the principals and supervisors of the schools.　

Iran is located in an active seismic zone between the Arabian Plate and the Eurasian Plate. Small to moderate earthquakes are common as the plates move past each other. Even so, Bam had never before experienced any major earthquake, which can be testified by the existence of the 2,000-year-old castle, Arg-e-Bam. Residents never thought to question the safety of their houses in the event of a major earthquake. Tragically, many of those who died in the earthquake were victims of poor building methods.

In Bam, traditional buildings--including schools--were constructed of mud-brick walls topped with roofs of modern steel girders. This style of construction was good for blocking out heat in the summer, but it could not withstand the violent shaking of earthquakes. When the ground began to undulate like a shaken blanket, the buildings were jolted up and down. The mud bricks separated from one another, and the steel girders on the roof were flung up from the walls on which they were seated. Then, when the ground began to move side-to-side, the largely disassembled structures twisted violently and collapsed on the occupants.

The earthquake killed nearly 11,000 teachers and students. Over 100 schools were toppled. About half of the schools in Bam are still under construction. Until the new schools are finished, students are forced to attend classes in makeshift classrooms made from shipping containers. These are extremely hot in summer, and leave little space on campus for outdoor activities. Another inconvenience is the noise and dust from the construction work. Occasionally, the whole school has to move elsewhere to accommodate the construction.

Clearly, it is important that students return to their normal studies as early as possible. Tzu Chi volunteers are currently in the process of rebuilding five schools. Felino Palafox, a renowned Philippine architect, drew up the blueprints for the four new high schools and a new elementary school. Construction of the schools began in April 2005, and the goal is to have them completed before the next semester begins in September 2006.

Ten months have passed since the groundbreaking for the schools, and the reconstruction effort is still going strong. On every damaged campus, there is a school building under construction. Although the buildings have not been completed yet, expectations remain high. The drawings on the blueprints will become realized in the near future.

In February 2006, Tzu Chi volunteers accompanied Palafox as he inspected the construction sites. He was very satisfied with the progress. "Although we started construction much later than expected, we've worked efficiently and quickly without sacrificing safety or quality."

In planning the schools, Palafox and his associates decided to use reinforced concrete, something local builders seldom use. Naturally, such measures would strengthen the schools' resistance to future earthquakes.

Palafox also incorporated a variety of cultural aspects into the design of the schools. Bam, once a major city on the Silk Road, received cultural influences from Europe and Asia. Reflecting this history, Palafox designed a slanting roof feature from the Far East onto a wind tower, a structure commonly used in the Middle East to provide good ventilation. His ingenious idea of combining two architectural features from separate cultures enriched the historical content of the building.

Akhtar Razazi was originally the principal of Farhangiyan No. 2 Girls Elementary School. Her school collapsed in the earthquake, and she was assigned to the Farhangiyan No. 1 Girls Elementary School seven months ago.

Razazi pointed out that the students' education has been affected by the earthquake in several ways. First, there was damage to the school building itself. Teachers and students from her school have moved to makeshift classrooms in an empty lot next door while waiting for their new school to be completed.

There was also an increase in the number of students enrolled in the school, due to students transferring from other schools or the influx of migrants from outside of Bam. The number of students at Razazi's school increased from 288 to 350, stretching the already limited resources available to the students. The overcrowding has further decreased the standard of learning on campus.

However, Razazi also observed that the majority of the students' parents worked in the field of education. This has helped offset some of the negative effects of the earthquake. They have worked very diligently to make sure their children do not fall behind in their studies. "They didn't ignore their children's education simply because of the earthquake," Razazi said. "The teachers have also been generous, and they tutor students after school to try and keep them caught up with their lessons. They do this not for more money, but simply for the students' sake. Both the teachers and the students' parents are worthy of our continued support."

The disaster affected people's fates and their livelihood, but hope still burns strong within their hearts.　

My mother combs my hair,
She helps me put on beautiful clothes
On which are printed flowers and butterflies,
And then she sends me to school.　

Inside a shipping container pressed into service as a classroom, we watched primary school students read aloud a nursery rhyme that described a girl at home preparing to leave for school. For us, the scene was natural and normal. But it meant something completely different to Zahra Kavegan, a teacher at Farhangiyan No. 1 Girls Elementary School. For her, watching the children read and listening to the tender words brought up painful memories.

Kavegan lost her two lovely daughters in the earthquake. To honor their memories, she voluntarily transferred to the No. 1 School, where her daughters used to study. "I still cry whenever I see my daughters' belongings, but their death is a fact that can't be changed," said Kavegan sadly. "I have no choice but to accept it." She copes with her tragic loss by focusing her energy on her students. "I treat all of them as my daughters and try to teach them well."

Even before the earthquake, Amanollah Askari, a retired director of the Bam Education Bureau, had been very concerned about education for poor students. He had opened two small schools for the poor, but the earthquake destroyed both of them. The death of many of his students in the quake broke his heart. Now, the damaged tables and chairs lie rusting in a heap in a corner of the campus. What was left of the schools was turned into houses for rent. Askari moved his family to Kerman, 200 kilometers (124 miles) away from Bam, so that his own children can attend school.

The hands of time cannot be reversed, but Askari still remembered his mission in life. Refusing to give up, he has found a new location in Bam where he plans to start another school. He truly understands the importance of education. "Knowledge is vital as a road to success. With knowledge, people can live better lives. If we had had better knowledge before the earthquake, not so many people would have been killed."

We rode back into Bam with Askari. The city was showing signs of coming back to life, but the disaster had altered the face of the city. As we drove through the streets, he shared his thoughts with us. "The city has become a different one than the one I knew before the quake. Many of my friends have gone. Many places I used to know have fallen. Whenever I come here, I always feel sad, and these bad feelings seem to accumulate. To me, the city is now like a stranger."

Askari travels back and forth between Bam and Kerman every day to fulfill his dream of building a new school. "Actually, I can live a good life in Kerman, but I don't want to do so. I may not live long, so I hope to make the most of my time and work towards meaningful things. That way, I won't be ashamed when I meet Allah after I die."

Akhtar Razazi also spoke of her wishes while contemplating the city that has become unrecognizable and that has filled her with sad memories. "I pray for no more disasters and for no more suffering. I pray that the schools will be completed soon so the students can attend classes in peace. Finally, I pray that our ancient castle can be rebuilt soon."　

The 2,000-year-old castle has suffered considerable damage, but it is not beyond repair. It has witnessed both a gigantic natural disaster and an unbending determination to preserve it.　

The "ancient castle" that Razazi referred to is the Arg-e-Bam, or "Citadel of Bam." The 2,000-year-old structure is Bam's most famous and enduring landmark. Composed entirely of mud bricks, clay and straw, it is the source of historical pride in the hearts of Bam's residents. There is a saying: "Without the ancient castle, Bam is no longer Bam."

We decided to visit the Citadel. When we saw the dejected castle surrounded by yellow fences, it was like seeing a gigantic ancient work of art. The castle stood imposingly between earth and sky. The Citadel also stood between nature's attempt to destroy it and humans' unbending determination to preserve it.

Bathed in the glow of the setting sun, the fallen castle still provoked awe. It seemed to stare out quietly at the people who came to pay their respects. The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) and other organizations have decided to restore this valuable, historical asset. Despite the many difficulties that face them in the endeavor, they hope to bring it back to its original ancient elegance.

Despite being small and remote, the city of Bam achieved international fame because of the earthquake. The earthquake lasted for just a few seconds, but altered the future of Bam forever. The ancient city had remained virtually unchanged for 2,000 years, but it is changing rapidly now. New migrants, new buildings, and new lives are pouring into Bam. However, we are certain that the newly built and stronger city of Bam will retain the valuable assets and the common memory of its people.